Moving and Transplanting Trees and Shrubs

GardenLine | Trees and Shrubs | Moving and Transplanting Trees and Shrubs

Sharon Faye

When to move:

Deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs may be planted either in the spring or the fall. Deciduous plants may be moved in the spring as soon as the frost is out of the ground, up until the time when new foliage is partly unfurled. In the fall, they may be planted once the leaves start to turn colour up until the ground freezes.

Although all trees and shrubs can be moved in either spring or fall, there are some which establish themselves better when moved in the spring, such as the softwoods (willows, poplars, birches).

Evergreens should be moved earlier in the fall than deciduous plants so they have time to form new roots. They need at least 6 weeks before the ground freezes. In the spring, Evergreens can be planted up to 4 weeks after deciduous trees have opened their leaves, providing that the newly planted trees receive adequate water.

Digging the root ball:

When you want to dig up a tree or shrub for transplanting, retain as much of the root system as possible. Deciduous trees that are only 3-4 years old may be moved with their roots bare.

Older deciduous trees and all ages of evergreens, can be successfully moved only if a ball of soil is left around the roots. The exposed roots should be protected with moist burlap or newspaper or with polyethylene sheeting. Every effort should be made to reduce root exposure to wind and sun, keeping the ball as moist as possible. It's best to prepare the hole before digging up the tree you wish to move.

Size of the root ball and size of the hole:

For deciduous trees and shrubs the soil ball should be:

Width = 9-12 in. in diameter/every 1 in. of tree diameter
Depth = 6 in./every 1 in. of tree diameter

For example: A tree trunk 2 inches wide would need a soil ball of 18-24 inches wide and 12 inches deep.

To calculate the weight of the soil ball before you move it, use this formula:

Weight of soil ball = width of ball x depth of ball x .05 lbs.

For example: A tree trunk of 2 inches wide would have a soil ball that weighed:
(24" wide x 12" deep) x .05 lbs = 14.5 lbs.

A tree trunk of 4 inches wide would have a soil ball that weighed:
(48" wide x 24" deep) x .05 = 56 lbs.

To ensure that the soil ball is not disturbed when moving, it should be held together with a piece of burlap or sacking. "Lace" the burlap with heavy twine if the tree is to be moved a considerable distance.

Dig the new hole large enough so that the root system will not be crowded or folded. About 15 cm of space should be allowed on all sides of a plant that has a small root ball or for bare root transplants. If the plant has a large root ball (over 1 m in diameter), allow at least 30 cm all around. Usually it is best to dig a hole twice the size of the root ball.

When digging, retain the topsoil, keeping the subsoil separate. Mix the topsoil with any additional soil that is needed, with about 1\4 of the total volume being peat moss, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure. A fertilizer such as 6-0-6, or 7-7- 7 at 1 gram\litre may be added to poor soil, before it is mixed.

Note: The condition of the subsoil generally is not a great concern since the only roots going down will be the support roots. Feeder roots stay near the surface. Therefore you won't want a lot of organic matter at the bottom of the hole. In fact, this may cause problems later when the organic matter rots, causing the soil to subside and the tree to sink where it may suffer from an oxygen shortage. The subsoil should be discarded only if it is really poor.

How to plant:

Broken roots on bare-root trees and shrubs should be trimmed back with sharp pruning shears. Set the tree in the hole with the old soil mark (ie. where the bark is discoloured on the main stem) at the ground level or slightly below. Drive in a stake for support if required.

Work the soil down between the roots or under the curve of the root ball, firming it periodically to avoid air pockets.

If setting a soil ball, which is firm, remove the burlap beforehand. If it is not firm , soil may be placed in the hole so that it comes about half way up the soil ball. This soil should be packed firmly, perhaps by tramping on it, and then water the tree thoroughly. Once the water has disappeared the burlap should be cut off and folded down on top of the tramped soil. Next, the hole may be completely filled with soil which can be tramped and watered again.

In regards to planting container grown stock, be sure to spread out roots that have wrapped around each other in the pot. Otherwise the roots will continue to grow this way. Stock that is shipped out, and that was previously held over winter as bare rootstock, should be soaked in water for 2 to 6 hours before planting. After soaking, keep the roots moist while you are busy planting.

SOURCES: Agriculture Canada; Planting Trees and Shrubs; publication 1679; Ottawa, ON.

Department of Horticulture, University of Saskatchewan; "Tree Moving".

Roger B Swain; Transplanting Trees.


Sustainable horticultural information, offered free of charge to the public with the support of the University of Saskatchewan Extension Division, the Department of Plant Sciences and the Provincial Government.